{"id":11938,"date":"2017-02-28T09:28:52","date_gmt":"2017-02-28T14:28:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/chris-higgins-journey-towards-mount-phabrang\/"},"modified":"2022-10-28T10:02:15","modified_gmt":"2022-10-28T15:02:15","slug":"chris-higgins-journey-towards-mount-phabrang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/chris-higgins-journey-towards-mount-phabrang\/","title":{"rendered":"Mount Phabrang: the peak that never was (Part 2)"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":2417,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[65,66,227,222],"tags":[643,1220],"class_list":["post-11938","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-outdoor-activities","category-hiking","category-travel","category-guides-adventures","tag-binoculars","tag-chris-higgins"],"acf":{"post_flexible_content":[{"acf_fc_layout":"text_content","content_anchor":false,"anchor_link_text":"","text_content":"<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Thinking about going on a trekking\u00a0adventure one day? <\/em><\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>Check out our <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/trekking-himachal-pradesh-miyar-valley\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Himachal Pradesh Trekking\u00a0series<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>featuring SAIL advisor and outdoor enthusiast, Chris Higgins, .<\/em><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">The climb started harmlessly enough. A soft and sandy path bordered with round white stones winding through shaded pine groves and over streams running with clear water. It felt more like a city park promenade than a Himalayan mountain trek.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/cJWZeX23Ik0\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">The night before in Urgos, under a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/en\/fishing\/ice-fishing\/outdoor-gear\/orienteering\/lighting\/lanterns\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lantern\u2019s glow<\/a>, we had huddled over the maps and decided on the Gangpo Valley for our approach route. There was little information available about Mount Phabrang and only several photographs. We chose Phabrang because of its elevation at 6372 metres and its proximity to the Miyar Valley. Taking the Gangpo route seemed like even more of an adventure because it hadn\u2019t been used by climbers in decades. It also saved us several days compared to the southern approach.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Our \u2018promenade\u2019, however, quickly turned into a set of dusty switchbacks cut out of a steep slope. Once out of the trees, we realized Gangpo was also another word for sore knees. In the lower areas, it was all moraine mash, nothing but rocks, boulders and the river. No shortage of rocks in these mountains. Homes, aqueducts, fences, barns, huts are all built with rocks and for good reason\u2026there\u2019s plenty around.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Two \u2018Grumpy Men\u2019 were ahead of me, barely visible through the horse\u2019s dust trail. Out front, as usual, Martin Jones, a veterinarian from the UK, our medic and the team\u2019s \u2018Grunt Master\u2019. Always in front, always with the heaviest pack. Just imagine Charles Bronson with a British accent and chapped lips.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Not far behind him, my good friend Oscar Jacobs who\u2019d offered me this journey with free passage to India. After postings at Canadian embassies in London, Tehran, Beirut and now New Delhi, Oscar was hoping to return home to Ottawa next. But, for now though, he was the team\u2019s appointed leader and token white guy Buddhist.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2348 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/valley.jpg\" alt=\"Gangpo Valley\" width=\"387\" height=\"425\" \/><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Arriving at first camp, we dumped our packs and literally hit the ground to clear rocks for tent pads. Martin, who happened to be the son of a Welsh miner, dug into the grunt of quarry life like a Special Ops sergeant. At 3300 metres, our camp sat at the base of the valley, hemmed in on both sides by mountains. In the higher reaches, sheep trails formed lines across the slopes. Not far away, you could hear the rapids of the Gangpo River, its water murky grey with glacial silt. Above us, the valley narrowed to a thin bank along the river and then took a turn out of sight.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">After a day for acclimatization, we climbed further up the valley. Moraine is tricky business. Bouncing from rock to rock, there\u2019s always the risk of a fractured ankle or a bruised rib. As we climbed higher, the air thinned and occasionally, I\u2019d stop to catch my breath. It was also a chance to take in the spectacular views of this remote place. The porters, carrying the heavier gear, made it look easy. Young to middle aged men with grizzled faces, they smiled easily, and always offered friendly waves and warm greetings of\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cNameste\u201d.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2349 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Gangp.jpg\" alt=\"View of Gangpo Valley\" width=\"387\" height=\"425\" \/><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Basecamp was on a rocky plateau overlooking the river at 4000 metres. \u00a0A steep glacial ridge blocked our view further up the valley. This wasn\u2019t a picturesque ivory white type of glacier, more of a dirty grey wall of ice, mud and, of course, rocks. Looking down, towards the Miyar, we sipped tea in the morning and watched the sun\u2019s first light warm a panorama of jagged peaks. Nights were cold, but once the sun hit camp, it was just base layers or a fleece. Regular scans with the binoculars showed no signs of the Golden Eagles or Griffon Vultures that fly these skies.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">No sign of Mount Phabrang either. It was higher up, with the glaciers and snow capped peaks. Two days later, we headed up the valley for reconnaissance and to cache gear for an advanced basecamp. No porters this time, just our backs.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img class=\"aligncenter wp-image-2351 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/gonpovalley.jpg\" alt=\"View of Gangpo Valley\" width=\"387\" height=\"425\" \/><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">We climbed the ridge to where it leveled out and widened into a barren landscape dotted with granite boulders. When the valley took a sharp turn south to the right, Mount Phabrang finally appeared. With a glacier at its base, Phabrang\u2019s rocky peak reached above the other mountains and dominated the skyline.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">When it came into view, Oscar\u2019s awestruck and somewhat disappointed expression looked like I felt. We both saw the long thin ridge of jagged rocks, like a shark\u2019s fin, leading to Phabrang\u2019s summit. After we sat down as a group and talked it over, we agreed the mountain was beyond our abilities. It wasn\u2019t so much the crevasses or camping in the west col. It was that shark\u2019s fin.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">In the end, all of us chose to walk away and climb another day. We had all agreed earlier in Delhi that \u201cnobody dies on a mountain\u201d. Sometimes, there\u2019s a very fine line between adventure and extreme danger. It was just a matter of throwing our egos away and admitting our limits.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Certainly, I was disappointed. But nothing was really lost in the greater scheme of things. We had seen much by climbing up the Gangpo. Oscar had pinned a line of Tibetan prayer flags up high between rocks stacked on a boulder to let the wind release prayers for goodness and peace into the world. Besides, it meant more time to climb and explore further up the Miyar Valley.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Gear Talk<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/JUMELLES-10-257.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-2411\"><img class=\" wp-image-2411 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/JUMELLES-10-257.jpg\" alt=\"JUMELLES-10-257\" width=\"358\" height=\"321\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Binoculars<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">They\u2019re not just for birdwatchers. A pair of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/en\/outdoor-gear\/orienteering\/binoculars-spotting-scopes\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">lightweight binoculars<\/a> makes the surroundings so much more interesting by letting you look at the details up close and see creatures. On this trip, binoculars were a godsend for reconnaissance. They come light these days; there are powerful models that won\u2019t feel like a brick around your neck.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2016\/09\/space.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1637\"><img class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1637\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2016\/09\/space.jpg\" alt=\"space\" width=\"805\" height=\"23\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/fr\/chaussures\/homme\/bottes-de-randonnee\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"attachment noopener wp-att-2343\">\r\n<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/salomon3707317.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-2413\"><img class=\" wp-image-2413 alignright\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/salomon3707317.jpg\" alt=\"salomon3707317\" width=\"353\" height=\"312\" \/><\/a>\r\n<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n<h2 style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Hiking boots<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">If you\u2019re getting around on your feet, there\u2019s no reason to sell yourself short on footwear. In the mountains, especially, investing in a solid pair of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/en\/footwear\/men\/hiking-boots\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hiking boots<\/a> can make all the difference. Try on a few brands to find the best fit and use a good hiking sock. If you\u2019re in the market for footwear, you can check out my earlier blog on hiking boots.<\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2016\/08\/space.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-1601\"><img class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-1601\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2016\/08\/space.jpg\" alt=\"space\" width=\"1384\" height=\"30\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/OakleFiveSQPrizm7.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-2412\"><img class=\" wp-image-2412 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/blog\/app\/uploads\/2017\/02\/OakleFiveSQPrizm7.jpg\" alt=\"OakleFiveSQPrizm7\" width=\"375\" height=\"337\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Sunglasses<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">When you\u2019re in the mountains, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sail.ca\/en\/orienteering\/glasses\/sunglasses\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sunglasses<\/a> cut out the glare and protect your eyes. They can also make you look cool which isn\u2019t necessarily a bad thing. If you go too cheap, consider bringing a second pair along as replacements. A retainer strap has saved me from loosing sunglasses many times by keeping them around my neck when I\u2019m not using them.<\/p>"}],"author_type":"wordpress","partnership_options":{"partnership_label":"","partner_logo":null,"partner_link":"","partnership_text":""},"override_related_posts":false,"related_posts":null,"right_cta_visibility":false,"sidebar_cta_content_override":false,"sidebar_cta_title":"","sidebar_cta_description":"","sidebar_cta_button":null},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.6 (Yoast SEO v27.6) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Mount Phabrang: the peak that never was (Part 2) | SAIL Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Learn more about Chris Higgins&#039; adventure and his journey towards Mount Phabrang. 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